Finally, change is in sight! Our industry's dark little secret is finally getting some attention.
I have been a buyer in the outdoor industry for almost 20 years now (that number alone scares me!). Over this time I have witnessed a huge change in the ethics of sourcing the products that we choose to bring to our local market. In my early days it was simple as I mainly bought goods from reputable Canadian manufacturers. Active people who tinkered with projects in basement offices and local trails designed most of the specialized outdoor products. Small factories in Canada and the US then did manufacturing. Doing the right thing as a buyer was simple.
Over the last 10 years the landscape in out little industry has changed completely. A larger, usually publicly-traded, company has purchased all but one of our major suppliers. Most of the goods that used to be made in Canada or the US are now made in China or other Asian countries. Throughout this period, though many of our customers expressed that they did not like to buy Chinese made goods, the general response has been for shoppers to embrace the least expensive reasonable options available to them. This has helped to ensure the demise of our domestic manufacturers. More frustratingly, the consolidation of companies has resulted in an erosion of brands that show meaningful social leadership. It has seemed to me as though traditional corporate ethics have been applied to the outdoor market; a market that was bourn out of a rejection of those ethics. Wild Rock, and our Peterborough customers, have still had access to great products but the companies that have supplied us those goods have not always shared our values and ethics.
A few companies, Patagonia being the best example, have stood out over the years. These are the companies that have never let their core values slip in exchange for increased sales. The big revelation of the last year is that some companies have made a shift back to their roots. In some cases this is a direct response to seeing their sales eroded by smaller companies with strong environmental stances entering the market. Regardless, the result is that we are finally, once again, able to make many of our buying decisions based on a firm commitment to our own values.
The following are a few highlights for the upcoming seasons.
Patagonia, the perennial leader in addressing environmental issues, has entered the footwear market taking action to prove to the footwear industry that it is possible to manufacture in a much less harmful way. They have committed building shoes featuring leather produced in ISO14001 factories/tanneries that are strictly regulated. In addition, all of their soles feature either recycled rubber or Hevea Milk based soles. Hevea Milk is the only 100% sustainable source of latex available. They also use as little adhesive, which is the chemical nasty of the footwear business, as possible.
Patagonia is not only the original pioneer of both organic cotton use and recycled fiber in fleece but is also totally committed to the use of these products when almost every other company has moved away from these fabrics because they cost a few bucks more. They are also now building shell jackets, all capilene long underwear and many other items in recycled/recyclable materials. Patagonia's admirable position of leadership on these issues has, in many cases, made it possible for other companies to take action as they develop technologies that other companies can then use.
Icebreaker, whose sole business is merino wool clothing, uses a resource that, by nature, is sustainable/renewable. In addition, their wool-processing facility uses a cycling system which continually reuses chemicals rather than disposing of them.
Some of you may have read my article on Fox River Socks in the last newsletter. They are a true leader who has continually worked to reduce waste and energy use. They have recently released a line of socks made from environmentally sustainable fibers. The range includes both organically processed merino wool as well as a new fiber sourced from non-genetically modified corn.
The big focus of the equipment companies is on the elimination of PVC. We have chosen to switch our dry bag selection to Pacific Outdoor, our shoulder/messenger bag selection to Timbuk2 for this reason. We will be sourcing more PVC-free items as they become available as well as switching our support to companies that are working on these initiatives.
Finally, Osprey packs will release a range of packs manufactured entirely from recycled materials for next fall.
I praise the above companies for their efforts. In most cases it takes one company to work with a fabric manufacturer to develop, say, the ability to produce recycled fleece, polyester or rubber. Once that has been achieved that product is usually available for other manufacturers to work with. Patagonia for example is responsible for subsidizing organic cotton growers in the USA until they were in a sustainable, independent position. Now many other brands use organic cottons from those growers. Patagonia is also responsible for developing recycled fleece from Polartec and recycled rubber from Vibram. These are the most widely used materials in their respective categories so the impact that these developments can make extends beyond just what Patagonia produces. The key issue is that they, like the few other leading companies, care more about the greater issues than just squeezing profits out of the market.
Almost as an aside all of the above companies have been working for years to minimize the amount of packaging that ships with their goods. This may seem like a small issue but you might be shocked to know how much packing material some companies use. Many also don't seem to make any attempt to use recycled, PVC-free material even for packing. (In a peak of frustration a few years ago I bagged all the packaging material from one delivery from one of our most offending suppliers and sent it to their head office along with a bit of a rant. Their response was that they had "never thought of the issue". Over the next seasons they did pare down the packaging they used proving to me that it is worth keeping pressure on the big companies.) Although we have a long way to go, the outdoor industry does lead the way when it comes to developing or popularizing more environmentally responsible packaging and packing material.
All of these developments are very expensive at their initial stages and in the end lead to slightly more expensive goods. It is up to each of us to decide how we perceive cost. Obviously, when considering a purchase, we must assess cost based on our pocketbook. We should also consider the environmental/social cost of the goods we purchase. If these issues are important to you please do not hesitate to ask any of our staff for the "greenest option" in any product category. More importantly, ask this of any and every retailer as you do you daily shopping. It is only with increased pressure that more manufacturers will start to responsibly address the environmental impact of the goods they produce.
Together we can make a difference.